Here I’ve complied four photo tutorials that go hand in hand with my Annabelle Wrap pattern. (1) Brioche Stitch (2) Transitioning from Brioche to Honeycomb, how to work the Honeycomb Stitch, transitioning from Honeycomb back to Brioche (3) How to pick up edge stitches (4) How to work the i-cord edging
The Annabelle Wrap is worked with 2 edge stitches – The first stitch being slipped knitwise and the last stitch being purled. Those edge stitches are worked in the swatch below, but I don’t explicitly explain working the edge stitches in the tutorials.
The swatch shown is 20 stitches across. Brioche and Honeycomb are worked in multiples of 2 (18 stitches), then I added 2 stitches for the edges, making a total of 20 stitches.
SECTION 1 : BRIOCHE STITCH
Brioche gets a bad wrap about being hard or intimidating, but this stitch is actually surprisingly simple. It’s worked with basic yarn overs and slipped stitches. The hardest part is it’s weird abbreviations. It’s a piece of cake to work up. Let me show you.
YF SL YO: Bring yarn to the front of your work, slip 1 stitch purlwise, bring yarn over the top of right needle to the back of work – The yarn over crosses over the slip stitch
BRK 1: Brioche Knit — Knit next knit stitch together with its paired yarn over
Set Up Row (RS): *YF SL 1 YO, K1* ; rep from * to end
Row 1: *YF SL 1 YO, BRK1* ; rep from * to end
Repeat Row 1 until you reach your desired length
Now for the step-by-step photos — Begin by cast on an even number of stitches
For the Set Up Row you’ll bring your working yarn to the front of your work
Then you’ll slip the stitch on your left hand needle purlwise onto your right hand needle
Bring the working yarn over the top of your right hand needle to the back of your work, creating a yarn over. Your work should look something like this – A slip stitch with a yarn over on top of it.
Then you’ll Knit 1 stitch
It should looks something like this – The edge stitch, a slip stitch with a yarn over on top of it, and a knit stitch
Repeat this to the end of the row. After finishing this row it will looks something like this –
For Row 1, which is the repeat row, you’ll begin by bringing your working yarn to the front of your needle just like before and slipping 1 stitch purlwise from the left needle onto the right needle
Your work should look the same as before – A slip stitch with a yarn over on top of it
Now you’ll BRK1, which means: Brioche Knit 1 – In other words, you’ll knit the next stitch, along with its paired yarn over
You’ll repeat those two steps until the end of the row – Bringing the yarn to the front of your work, slipping a stitch purlwise, bringing the yarn over the right needle to the back of the work (creating a yarn over), then working a BRK1.
Repeat Row 1 until you reach your desired length. After a number of repeats your work should look something like this:
SECTION 2 : HONEYCOMB STITCH
The Honeycomb Stitch creates a squishy texture comparable even to Brioche. It’s super simple once you’ve done a couple repeats, so there’s no need to feel intimidated.
YO: Yarn Over
SL: Slip the stitch (or yarn over) purlwise
Set Up Row (RS) *K2, YO* ; rep from * to end
Row 1 *K1 tog with YO, YO, SL 1* ; rep from * to end
Row 2 *K1, SL YO, K1* ; rep from * to end
Row 3 *YO, SL 1, K1 tog with YO* ; rep from * to end
Row 4 *K2, SL YO* ; rep from * to end
Repeat rows 1-4 until you reach your desired length
For the Set Up Row you’ll knit 2 stitches then make a yarn over. Since we’re working this stitch right after Brioche you’ll have quite a few yarn overs already – We’ll be ignoring the previous yarn overs and knitting them with their paired knit stitch as if they’re regular knit stitches.
Work your yarn over
The end of the Set Up Row should look like this. It’s an awful lot of loops, but don’t worry, it’s not as scary as it looks.
For Row 1 you’ll knit 1 stitch along with its paired yarn over. This stitch can be a little tricky to get your needle into because the Set Up Row yarn over tends to be tight.
Then you’ll make a yarn over
Then you’ll slip the next stitch purlwise — The yarn over will cross over the top of the slip stitch
For Row 2 you’ll knit 1 stitch
Then slip the yarn over that’s on your left needle. This is the yarn over you made in Row 1.
Then knit 1. It should look something like this – The edge stitch, a knit stitch, a slipped yarn over, a knit stitch
For Row 3 you’ll make a yarn over, then slip 1 stitch purlwise – Do not bring your yarn to the front when slipping stitches. It remains in the back the whole time.
Then you’ll knit the next stitch along with its paired yarn over, just like you did in Row 1
For Row 4 you’ll knit 2 stitches then you’ll slip the yarn over that you made in Row 3
After repeating these 4 rows a few times your work should start to look like this:
When working the Set Up Row for the next Brioche section, you’ll just knit the knit stitch with its paired yarn over as if the yarn over isn’t there. This is technically the same as Row 1 of Brioche because of the way the Honeycomb stitch leaves off, but in the pattern I specify it as the Set Up Row so you can easily identify the transition from one stitch pattern to the next.
SECTION 3 : PICKING UP EDGE STITCHES
Picking up edge stitches can seem scary, but once you’ve done it there’s a bit of embarrassed laughing that happens because you realize you were stressed about something that’s actually really easy. The key is to make sure your work is even (no ruffles, which means you’ve picked up too many stitches, and no stretching, which means you’ve picked up too few).
Because you’re working an i-cord edge you’ll want the working yarn to be on the right side by the time you’re done picking up all the stitches instead of the left, so you’ll take our new yarn and measure about 4x the width of the edge.
Now with your tail at the left side of your work and the working yarn at the right side, identify which stitches you want to work into. For this pattern we worked edge stitches specifically for this purpose. When you turn your work on its side you’ll see them quite easily.
For this pattern I found it worked best to pick up 2 stitches, skip a stitch, then pick up 2. I repeated this until I got to the last 2 stitches, then I skipped 1 and picked up the last stitch. To begin, insert your needle through both loops of the first edge stitch.
Wrap the yarn over your needle like you’re working a knit stitch
And pull the yarn through – You have just picked up 1 stitch
Insert your needle through both loops of the next stitch
Wrap the yarn over your needle and pull the yarn through – You have just picked up 2 stitches
Skip the next stitch
And work into the stitch after that
Repeat this way, working into 2 edge stitches and skipping 1, until you get to the last 2 stitches. Then you’ll skip 1 stitch.
And pick up the last edge stitch
Your edge should look something like this:
SECTION 4 : THE I-CORD EDGING
The i-cord is another technique that I feel like gets avoided and I really don’t understand why. It’s such a beautiful design piece and so, so simple to make. I suppose, yeah, it does take a few extra minutes, but it’s absolutely worth it.
K2TOG: Knit 2 stitches together
K2, slip 1 knitwise, K1, pass slip st over last K1, slip all 3 sts back to the left needle
Repeat these steps until you’ve worked all the sts except the 3 remaining on the RHN
Step 1: Slip sts onto LHN, K2TOG, K1
Step 2: Slip sts onto LHN, K2TOG through back loop
To begin, do not turn your work after picking up all your stitches and instead slide your work back to the right edge (this is why we wanted the working yarn on the right side of our work)
Now you’ll cast on 3 additional stitches using whatever method you prefer. I used the cable cast on.
Knit 2 stitches
Slip 1 stitch knitwise from the left needle to the right needle
Knit 1 stitch
Pass the slipped stitch over the knit 1 (just like you’re binding off)
Slip all 3 stitches back onto the left hand needle
Repeat these steps until you get to the last 3 stitches. Once you have 3 stitches left and you’ve slipped them back onto the left needle, knit 2 stitches together.
Then knit the remaining stitch
Slip both stitches back onto the left hand needle
Knit both stitches together through the back loop
Cut a tail and pull through to secure your i-cord
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